July 23 - Remnants of Communism

(Gene) We are on the train from München to Berlin. It will be a full 7 hours on the same train.

We have been traveling 1st class throughout the train system in Europe and I would definitely do it again. Since this is a popular trip we decided to reserve seats. For only 3? we have a seat that is guaranteed. Normally, you just grab a vacant or non-reserved location. Actually, I wanted to sit by the window for awhile. So, as I write I'm temporarily sitting in someone else's seat. I can see on the seat reservation that they do not get on the train until Lichtenfels. That is 2.5 hrs from now. So, for now, I will sit here.

(John) On the way to Berlin, I knew we'd be passing through the former East Germany. Not knowing exactly where the border was, I kept my eyes open for subtle signs in housing stock and public works.

Ultimately, it was not a very subtle difference. I soon saw a decrease in the quality of homes. In rural areas, some homes were no bigger than shacks. Many electrical poles were made from girders, and the safety barriers along roads changed in
style.

The big clue, however, was in larger towns like Jena and Leipzig. These cities had row after row of concrete apartments, all identical and about seven stories high. Many had recently been painted but still obviously not up to the same quality of apartments in Bavaria.

Finally, each train station along the way had an old abandoned section, and another that was obviously state of the art alongside. Parts of Leipzig looked as if they hadn't been touched since they were bombed more that sixty years ago. Occasionally, along the tracks I've seen an old abandoned Trabant car.

There are many signs of change in the east as well. Most of the cars are new, though still smaller than in the west. I've seen several new windmill power farms and lots of road projects too.

I can't imagine the billions of Euro that have been pumped into the economy of the east in the last fifteen years. What an enormous undertaking reintegration must be.

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We are established in Berlin now, just one subway stop from Kaiser Wilhelm church (the skeleton of which stands as a memorial to WWII). We went out for Italian food for dinner (carbonara for me, salmon and pasta for Gene). We are both tired of schnitzel and sausage and the like.

We also took a walk through KaDeWe, the humongous department store designed to display capitalist productivity inside East Germany. They were having a clearance sale and the place was packed. The weather here is quite dreary. Clouds darken the sky and drizzle is dampening my mood.

Tomorrow we will attend Lutheran services at Kaiser Wilhelm church. It seems an appropriate thing to do in the Protestant north of Deutschland.